The Richest Place on Earth #3

Mt Buninyong to Ballarat

27 November, 2020. 28-35C, hot. 20.52 kms.

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‘The Digger’s [sic] Road Guide to the Gold Mines of Victoria’. Date: August 1853. Cost: 2/6d. One of the very many ways of making money out of the gold rushes. The red lines were the ones to follow. The thicker red line to Ballarat, however, does not lead to Ballarat. It leads to Buninyong.

It was at Buninyong near the current cemetery, a kilometre or two back down the road towards Ballarat, that gold was first officially found in Victoria: August 3, 1851. The finder was Thomas Hiscock (whose name appears as ‘Hiscocks‘ on his memorial, engraved in granite unfortunately), a mild looking blacksmith with a wife and two boys then three girls who had migrated to Australia from Berkshire in 1841. It wasn’t by chance he found his reef which unlike the Union Jack Lead nearby turned out to be not very profitable; he had been looking. He was awarded £1000 by the government in 1854 for his revelation, but died before he could receive it as a result of a cold caught at the Mount Alexander (Castlemaine) diggings. I hope without confidence that the money was passed on to his family.

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Eugene von Guérard, 1884, Old Ballarat as it was in the summer of 1853-54

It all happened somewhere near here. It’s a very attractive painting, but there’s something weird about it. One clue, the date: 1884, or 30 years after the scene it purports to represent. A second matter. When he painted it on commission from James Oddie, the first Director of the Ballarat Art Gallery, von Guérard was in Germany. To me it looks like a circus has come to a very tidy town. Surely things would have been much messier than that, and a good deal more crowded. I remain to be convinced.

That out of the way, in the background is a modest mountain. With its little peak it could be Warrenheip, but for the purposes of iconography it should (and still could) be Mt Buninyong, a volcanic cone 12 kms south-east of the heart of Ballarat. (‘Buninyong’ is probably a variant of the word, ‘buninyouang’ which in the language of the Wathaurrung people, the traditional owners, means ‘man lying on his back with his knees raised’. You have to respect a language that includes a word like that.)

The plaque on the cairn at its peak says: ‘Mt Buninyong is an Extinct Volcanic Mountain 719 metres A.S.L. It Lies Within The Territory of the Kulin Tribe [‘Nation’ we might say these days] of Aborigines. The First European Explorers Reached The Summit in 1837. The First Settlers In The District Were The Learmonth Brothers in 1838.’ So soon. This is only two years after John Batman performed the swindle which led to the founding of Melbourne. Sometimes these things seem like the most formidable versions of swarming.

It is noted that the erection of the cairn was a Bicentennial project. Cr. Gerry Mullane representing descendants of pioneer families unveiled it on Australia Day 1988. That might have been done differently today.

‘Jaffa’ has scratched his name into it.

It is also the southern starting point of the Goldfields Track. After being seduced by the leg between Ballarat and Creswick and with the option for investigating wide open spaces spreading out in front us for the first time in most of year, we thought we’d do all of the Track’s 200 or so kilometres. Properly.

This was one of the views that greeted us from the top.

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Verdant paddocks, full dams, lush vegetation — it had been a very fine spring.

There is lots of interest in all the legs of this walk. None even vaguely disappoints. But this one, perhaps because it is the most urban and perhaps because by the time of arrival it was so hot, was not my favourite. Yes it begins on the summit of the mount. (We’d organised a car shuttle. Jessie our daughter was with us.) Then it coasts down the side of the cone with a few zig-zags. It was a lovely crisp morning.

As soon as you get out of the reserve the grand houses begin. Who knew? Not me, but why wouldn’t you think that the sides of a volcanic cone would be commandeered for views, tennis courts, olive groves, gestures at vineyards and dressage rinks by people who can afford it. No reason. Move on. There’s still money in Ballarat. You’ve just got to know where to look. But then I guess that’s the story of my birthplace really.

It is beautiful country with, of course, rich volcanic soils.

We missed the turnoff down the Wallaby Track because the busy Midland Highway was being remade and crossing it a serious challenge, thereby missing Buninyong township’s Botanical Gardens which was a pity.

One reason. Baron Ferdinand von Mueller was influential in its development. The Baron was a chemist and geographer as well as a botanist who found and named more than 800 species unknown to western science in his adventures in some of my favourite parts of Victoria, the Prom and the Alps among others, as well as elsewhere in remote Australia. More than anyone else he was responsible for the plantings in Melbourne’s wonderful Royal Botanic Gardens. He had migrated from Rostock in what is now northern Germany in 1847, landing and establishing himself in Adelaide. But after gold was discovered he had the idea of setting up a chemist shop on the Victorian diggings. But before he could, he was plucked from relative obscurity to become the Government Botanist, a post created especially for him.

He was also a member of the Exploration Committee which oversaw the Burke and Wills expedition to cross the continent from south to north. His expert views were constantly voted down by people who rarely left their lounge rooms. But that is another story. (Just four sentences of which are: On 20 August 1860, the Expedition was farewelled from Royal Park by 15,000 spectators. It included 23 horses, 26 camels and six wagons and carrying 20 tonnes of baggage which included a cedar table with a sitting of chairs, a Chinese gong and ‘enough food for two years’. One wagon broke down before they got out of Royal Park. By midnight that day — the going was heavy apparently — they got to Essendon (7 km) where two more wagons broke down. It was never going to work.)

But we didn’t miss Buninyong, the streets of which are full of gold era buildings, the Town Hall being the most prominent.

There is also this lovely church, originally Presbyterian, now Uniting, with its long sloping accents.

A stolen pic. We saw no clouds on our walk, but they do suit the grey of the slate.

It was built in 1860. Its first pastor, Thomas Hastie, remained in that position for 44 years. I should think possibly too long. But the Nugget Hotel is more how I imagine remnant goldfields architecture.

Squat, solid, snug, plain. Georgian Primitive perhaps. But it has had its moments, moments which are probably more reflective of life on the goldfields than the grandeur of Craig’s Hotel or the architectural icons on Sturt and Lydiard Streets.

From the ‘Star’ on the 10 June 1861:

An inquest was held at the Nugget Hotel, Buninyong, before G. Clendinning, Esq., Coroner of the district, on the body of James Savage, surgeon, who died suddenly on Saturday morning at the above mentioned hotel. The body lay in the concert-room of the hotel. The following witnesses were examined.

William B. Smith, landlord of the Nugget Hotel, sworn, … proceeded as follows. I knew the deceased five years. His age was about 35, and he was an Irishman and a Roman Catholic. Upon Thursday evening about ten o’clock the deceased came into my house, his face all covered with blood, and with one boot on. I asked him where he had been, but from the state of intoxication that deceased was in he could not tell me. Myself and lodgers examined his head, fearing that he had been struck there, but could find no injury. I found subsequently that the blood came from a cut across the nose. I requested two of my lodgers to take him across to the boarding-house, where he had been stopping for the last five months, which they did, but informed me that admittance was refused to deceased. I then stated that he was sure to be ultimately taken in at the boarding-house. I was, however, so uneasy, that in about half an hour I sent two men over to fetch him to my own house, if he had not been taken in, as the night was frosty and cold, and I felt that it would be only charity to give him shelter for the night.

Deceased had not been taken into the boarding house, and the men brought him over to my house. I then ordered him to be taken up stairs to the attic, which is a place not generally used as a sleeping apartment, but more frequently for poor men who cannot pay for the accommodation. My house was full. I provided him with a rug from my own bed, and pillows.

About six o’clock in the morning, deceased knocked at the bar door and requested for God’s sake a drop of colonial beer, as he was perished. I gave a pint to him, and subsequently another. Finding that he was begging a sixpence of some fishermen in the bar [this is the surgeon], I told him not to do so, and that if he would promise to go up stairs I would give him another pint of beer, which, upon getting, he did.

About 2 p.m. I had a conversation with him for about half an hour. The conversation was principally about his affairs. He was quite rational. At about a quarter past four on Friday evening, the deceased came into the bar and requested me to send to the boarding-house for his medicine box, which I did by a man of the name of Kilpatrick. The box now produced is the one. He asked for two tumblers, and out of the packet now produced he took a small quantity on the point of a knife, and put it in the tumbler with some water, which he drank. The amount of stuff taken would cover a sixpence. Thinking this not enough, he further took a small quantity more, which he added to the previous quantity he had taken out of the parcel produced.

To the jury – After having drank the powder, he requested from me a nobbler of brandy, and promised that he would go to bed and annoy me no more that day. I ordered him to get the brandy. By the jury – This was about half-past four o’clock. He did not remark anything about it being enough for him, or anything of that sort. He then thanked me for the brandy, and went up stairs to bed. I did not again see him alive. Next morning about twelve o’clock feeling surprised that he had not come down, I sent a man up to see what was the matter, who in a minute or so informed me he was dead. The man’s name who found him was Kilpatrick. I could not believe it, and went up stairs myself and found that he was dead, and lying on his right side with his knee slightly contracted. His head was on the pillow, and he was warm. I then sent for Dr Rankin and the Sergeant of Police. By the jury-He was sober on the Thursday night. He was not outside my door, on the Friday, and all the drink he had was the three pints of beer and the nobbler of brandy. My sole motive in taking him into my house was pure charity, and a good feeling of friendship, as the deceased had no money to pay for anything. … By the Police -I know only from hearsay how the blood came upon his face. Deceased was in the habit of taking sudden fits of intemperance which, while they lasted, were generally the most desperate character. The paper out of which the deceased took the powder was marked “morphia”.

We must move on. We’ve scarcely left the mountain.

After turning left at the Mechanics’ Institute, a forthright study in facadism, you wander through De Soza Park to find the somnolent Union Jack Creek which takes you back to the Geelong Road. From here it’s basically two long stretches joined by Whitehorse Road.

Ballarat now sprawls in most directions. South-east are the suburbs of Mount Helen and Mount Clear. You walk through and between them on the ‘bitumenised Envirotrail’, which you might think a contradiction in terms. It felt a bit like it that day …

… but garden displays like this one made up for any disappointment.

By the time we got to the left turn at Mount Clear the heat was really beginning to kick in. Time for a cool drink, an energising cool drink. There was a shopping centre in exactly the right spot but we were still living in a flood of coronavirus anxiety: shops were open or not open, outside people were masked or not, unsure of how to play it. Tradies were bombarding the fish and chip/ hamburger joint with custom, but that wasn’t quite what we were after.

Tucked away in a corner we found the Wellness Health Store and Smoothie Bar which had everything we wanted — I think I had a Tropical Explosion, superb, and exactly as required — and quite a lot more. We sat outside on some steps in the walkway which gave me plenty of time to review the window display.

Salted maple hemptations, Organic Activated Tamari Almonds, Keto and Paleo (at the same time!) chips, NO PONG all natural anti-odourant, Byron Epsom Salts, Tea Tonic Gold Sugar, and that’s even before we come to the pièce de résistance — a meditating Santa offering an ambitious supply of condoms. Worth the walk on its own really. I’ll be back.

A kilometre and a half up and over the hill from one leg to the other, unprepossessing in the main, just a semi-suburban street, although there was some sort of old furnace on the left framed by a dead tree which would have had a story. This was gold country. The Union Jack Lead which we had just passed nearby was one of the most productive on the Ballarat fields.

The Whitehorse Bridge with two hot walkers looking over the Yarrowee River which was at least pretending to flow. In all 200 kilometres we didn’t see a determined water course. Sailors Creek at Daylesford was running, literally, at about a litre a minute. Forest, Barker’s and Campbell’s Creeks at Castlemaine were reed beds and, even after three inches of rain in few hours, the Loddon at Vaughan Springs appeared stationary. It’s a dry country this one. [• Correction: till we got to the Coliban channel 175 kms later. Very much a going and vigorous concern.]

For the last seven or so kilometres, the Track uses a well-established walk way along the side of the … well we’ll call it a river. There can’t be many cities of Ballarat’s size where you can walk several kilometres into the centre largely through treed natural surroundings — and in Ballarat you can do it from at least two directions. This was a very pleasant surprise, as was the amount of shade along the way.

And then we came to the several wetlands. Another attractive surprise, sufficient to require a cup of tea. (Not illustrated. The photos start packing up about now. Too hot to be bothered.)

We failed to correctly read the waymark next to the bridge you can hardly see in the background of this photo and followed the Redan Creek rather than the mighty Yarrowee, a two kilometre mistake. Bad karma on a day like this, but of course precisely what you might expect. It was corrected quite readily but the last 4 kms were not enjoyed as much as they would be in other circumstances. I’d like to go back and have another look at the very serious bluestone drain which houses the Yarrowee until it disappears underground to re-emerge near the station.

Not my photo, but I remember it well. We were plodding towards the camera.

We managed the climb up Bakery Hill to our motel. Pleased. As I remember there was even the reward of an icy pole on the way. We staggered past the McDonalds cresting the hill without realising its relevance to this adventure.

This meditative Santa is wondering why he’s sitting outside the municipal toilets and whether he can get away with nicking that nugget up on the pillar there. He can’t. It is a facsimile of the Welcome Nugget (but not the Welcome Stranger Nugget), the second largest nugget of gold ever found — but Ballarat’s very own. It was found on Bakery Hill only about 100m from Macca’s near the corner of Humffray and Mair Streets, 9th June 1858.

It was found in the roof of a tunnel dug 55m underground by Red Hill Mining, a Company of 22 Cornishmen. I especially like this part of the story. (Remember the importance of the willing suspension of disbelief.) The proprietors of the ‘hole’ went away to lunch, leaving a hired man — casual labour, the Deliveroo rider — digging with a pick axe. ‘After the pick struck something, the workman dug around it to see what it was. Then he fainted. The owners returned and, believing the prostrate man to be dead, one of them jumped in, turned him over, and also fainted. Both of them were dragged out and digging began wildly for the nugget which lay partly exposed. The mass was so great that the men at first thought they had struck a reef of pure gold.’ But no. Only 69 kgs. Still … quite a good one.

* * * * * * *

Sturt Street runs east-west through the middle of this art work, the Town Hall being a feature. This is what had been created in thirty years. Ballarat.

James Meadows, copied in 1886 from a supplement in ‘The Illustrated News’ 11 June 1884. Original by A C Cooke. ‘Ballarat’

We’re looking out north towards the Creswick Ranges, and that’s where we’re back to next for a great part of the journey.

2 thoughts on “The Richest Place on Earth #3

  1. Pingback: The Richest Place on Earth #2 | mcraeblog

  2. David Andrew here. Just read your Ballarat hike blog. Totally inspirational. Will do it. Got to camp right around Australia first. We’ve been in Brisbane these past few months. Michael (son) and I have finished transforming a Toyota Hiace van into a surprisingly comfy camper – complete with solar power and all. Grandchild #5 is to be born in Melbourne early April. We’ll be around for that and then head off clockwise or anticlockwise. David, we like your writing style. It has something of Clive James about it! Best wishes, Andrew and Janice

    https://andrewgregg.studio/

    >

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